Well, here it is, the first completed project for History Heroine!

The back of the dress is pretty shapeless without a petticoat.
My dress mannequin 'Beatrix', is not wearing one  but I think it would look better if she was.

A close up of the contrasting fabrics and the bias binding

Now I don't want anyone to think I whipped this up in a day, because I didn't.  This is a garment I began over a year ago and had neglected.  I had it mostly assembled but not finished off and I had hit a fitting snag with its original cut.  

This is Butterick's famous 'Walk-Away Dress', first produced in pattern form in 1952. 

 

I did not know that it was 'famous', until I received (very gratefully) Gretchen Hirsch's book, Gertie's New Book For Better Sewing; Stewart, Tabori and Chang, (2012) for Christmas. 

 

Apparently the pattern for this dress was so popular that Butterick had to produce it alone for a while to cope with the back log of orders.  I chose it myself because I liked the pretty pictures on the envelope and wanted to try my hand at a retro pattern. 

Now, had I read Gertie's comments on it having "a barrel of fitting issues"(p.21) before I began it, I may have decided to leave it neatly in its envelope to remain just a pretty packet.  

I agree, that this seemingly simple pattern, and design is not as flattering or suited to a modern woman with generous curves and I had trouble with the shoulders and neckline in particular.  There was far too much fabric in the chest area after I first constructed it,  I didn't know what to do, so I got advise from my Nan, and a couple of other more experiences sewers I know.  I gave myself a bigger challenge because I stupidly put the bias binding all around its edges before checking the fit.  I was fooled into thinking that this 'simple, whip-up dress' was not going to be a bother.  I was so wrong :-( 

I added some darts at the neck and brought it in.  Originally it sat well off my shoulders.

Of course once the bias binding, a painstaking job of precision, was complete, I was loath to unpick it; so I had to figure out ways to modify the fit with minimal disruption to the bound edges.  In the end though I did unpick some of the binding.  Well if a job is worth doing it is worth doing properly, and I was determined to not make a shabby garment because I was using shortcuts.  

In the end I found the neckline such a challenge that I changed it altogether.  I still don't like the neckline, it is certainly too high to suit me, so I may change it again in time.  

I am not a big fan of this dress on me, I don't think it will be a regular of my wardrobe, but I have learnt some valuable lessons as I constructed it.

1. Just because you like the pretty pictures on a pattern envelope, does not mean it is a good design for your body type.  1950's pattern illustrations are notoriously deceiving as they often don't even reflect real human proportions i.e. waists thinner than heads. 
2. Always fit to your body before doing any of the finishing i.e. bias binding
3. Soft and flowing fabrics such as Rayon are lovely when the garment is completed, but they have a tendency to stretch as you work with them, even when being very careful.  Need to find a strategy to overcome this issue.
4. Bias binding stretches.  It seems so solid, but of course it stretches, it is cut on the bias (slap forehead with palm).

The buttons and waistline

The wrap around skirt lifted to
reveal the underskirt

A side view of the buttons under the bust

I just wanted to say that though the 'Walk-Away Dress' has not been my fave, I would not discourage anyone else from giving it a go.  I had a scout around google images and found pics of other sewers 'Walk-Aways' and most looked lovely and seemed to fit well.  

So, that is that for this week.  First project complete.  I won't usually post two blogs a week, but as yesterday's entry was really just an introduction and had nothing to show, I put this one together.  

My next project I think will be a simple, strap shouldered summer dress I can wear in the hot weather we are bound to face soon in Melbourne. 

Cheers for reading